In the lap of the Gods

If you were to walk the ‘paths of the Gods’ above the Amalfi coast and find yourselves in the Caruso Belvedere Hotel in Ravello then you could be forgiven for thinking you had stumbled upon their resting place. It does not require much imagination to visualise the Gods sitting on the edge of this pool pondering the fate of us mere mortals below. As you walk through the hotel and its gardens you half expect to meet toga clad guests around each column. It is impossible not be intoxicated by this blend of historical and natural surroundings which has made many mortals reach for pen and paper to attempt description. There is a viewing point just beyond the pool where you stand with the village of Scala to your left climbing up and up to the blue sky and to your right the valley drops down and down into the blue sea. That is a simple description and the photograph below provides some idea of the view. As regards the sensation …….. there is only one way to experience it.

The building, which was originally a 11th century palace, has been completely renovated with as many of its original features restored and conserved. These include vaulted ceilings, tiles, 18th century frescoes and a beautiful example of a small private chapel ‘cappelina’. Discoveries continue to be made, including evidence of medieval walls and other artefacts, as excavations extend beyond the main buildings into a site close to the hotel.

Walking through the hotel you also notice quite a number of paintings of Vesuvius in full flow reminding visitors of a more tumultuous past than the serene atmosphere of today.

Achieving a balance between the recreation of a bygone era with the technology expected by travelers of today is always a challenge for interior designers. Here technology is used to hide itself, with remote controls helping televisions and dvd players disappear gently into their cabinets to reveal uninterrupted views and maintain the required ambience. It is indicative of the efforts made to retain and preserve the historical and natural features of the hotel.

Many rooms and suites have period features such as arches and frescoed vaulted ceilings with specially commissioned furniture and furnishings to suit. Add to this the beautifully formed windows, balconies and terraces each offering guests their own private ‘ View’ and the scene is set.

Guests will often see the chef selecting herbs and vegetables from the hotel’s own gardens. These together with other local produce help create a feast that has to compete with the guests’ other senses as the light continually changes one beautiful view to another. The Belvedere restaurant offers the opportunity to eat Al fresco close to the garden and pool area, while the Caruso restaurant with its terrace and spectacular views provides options for eating outside or within an enclosed patio area.

Despite its location, the hotel is not isolated in any sense, in fact part of its attraction is its proximity to the wonderful architecture and gardens within Ravello itself. These include Villa Rufolo, Villa Cimbrone, the Church of the Annunziata and the 11th century Duomo, which also has a small museum. Guests are also provided with means of transport to explore further afield, with a complimentary shuttle bus and boat making the trip to Amalfi, Positano and the hidden creeks and bays along the “Divine Coast” all the more relaxed and enjoyable.

Music is a major feature in the life of Ravello, with the Villa Rufolo hosting open air classical concerts from March through to November, including the Wagnerian Music Festival in July. In August there is a Dawn Concert on August 11th – in coincidence with the falling stars night – where the orchestra plays against a backcloth of sea and sky as the sun rises. Not surprisingly, tickets are like gold. Smaller, more intimate ensembles and piano recitals are performed regularly each week and offer guests plenty of opportunity to enjoy an evening concert. Romantics will be spoilt for choice.

There are certain moments you never forget. One of mine is looking out from the Caruso with a Bellini made with the juice of fresh local peaches. This mere mortal was in the lap of the Gods.

Richard Edwards

typical scene in the narrow streets of Ravello

11th century colonnade covered with roses leads to the pool

the Cappelina, a small baroque style chapel within the hotel

Photographs by kind permission of Caruso Belvedere ©